John Waterhouse / Conspicuous Glamour

Women, women, women. Did John Waterhouse paint anything besides them?

I recently caught the Waterhouse exhibit at Musée de Beaux Arts in Montréal. From one fantastical oil painting to the next, I saw Waterhouse’s idealized woman, the same woman; beautiful, forlorn, and melancholy, suspended solitude in every single frame.

Among the brilliant jewel-like colors, a certain conspicuous glamor arises – the centrality of the subject and the light cast upon their porcelain faces parallels pages of fashion editorials in some of today’s more ‘classic’ mode magazines such as Vogue. (Below: Photography by Tim Walker in Italian Vogue and Jacques Dequeker in Vogue Brazil). 

I was asked by the Canadian designer, Narcissist, to style her morphable 'Pamela' dress on the open-minded Montréal editor of Vitamin Daily, Marianne Wisenthal. We had fun experimenting with a number ways to make one dress look so different, (click here for the results). On Marianne's excellent Editor's blog, she called me "the fashionista equivalent of matches and a swiss army knife." I must say that I am puzzled, hypnotized, and flattered by her description.

Whether the Pamela dress floats your boat or not, is less relevant than the style lesson it holds for fashionistas: be flexible with how you wear/style your regular clothes too. Buy LESS, but buy well and mix it up!

Strong Shouldered Soldier

This Fall season has seen strong, dramatic shoulders on clothing ranging from novelty sweaters  to leather jackets , and smart Balmainesque blazers. But the bold shoulder trend is not for everyone. The svelte among us with ballet-type posture (and the fashion nerve to boot!), are the ones who will look best in this silhouette. This dress from designer Katie Gallagher may be one of my favorites in the category of football-shoulder inspiration, because the volume takes up the entire upper sleeve. My only trouble with wearing this very sculpted look is a question of what coat to wear on top? I have been burying the volume of bold shoulder tops and dresses beneath my voluminous secondhand fur coat, but I suppose leather, elbow-length gloves and a scarf should be able to do the trick in Fall.

Costume Connect - C'est Halloween!

I went as a bride from the Mexican Day of the Dead for Halloween. It was refreshing to be able to pull off a 'dead' costume without having to wear all black. Halloween, an occasion for DIY costume and excess amounts of toxic candy: YUM. I propose we make it a bi-annual event! Here are photos of some of my creative friends and their impressive costumes...

 

Driving Miss Vuitton / Logo Overkill

Photo via Yvan Rodic in Bangkok.

Alexander McQueen SS10 - Can't Get You Outta My Head

Montreal Fashion Week - SS 10 - DENIS GAGNON

Montreal Fashion Week wrapped up last night with its most anticipated show - Denis Gagnon. Body con, slick, Balmain-esque silhouettes. It was refreshing to see pale pastels in the mix, given that the designer's religion has been black-on-black for the last several collections. The bold, chunky, mishapen bracelets worn by the models were provided by my favorite Montreal jewelery designer, the very talented Harakiri. As expected, all attendees looked like they had paid great attention to what they themselves wore to the show. The sharpest-dressed gentleman there was photographer, Sylvain Blais, in his white suit and black bow-tie in the front row. I wore an obscenely large-shouldered vintage fur myself, and got my photo taken by a few magazine photographers present at the event. If I happen to come across any snapshots of it online, I promise to share! Photo credit: Gazette Montreal.

Furry Find

 I had to wake up at 4:45am to host the Arts on CBC Radio 1's morning program, Daybreak. At that ungodly hour, when I stumble through my wardrobe in the dark, I want to wear something super comfortable and let the accessories express some style.

I picked up this perfect gem of a bracelet a few days ago at POP Montréal's DIY craft event, Puces Pop. These fluffy, puffy bracelets are hand-assembled, and the fur is cut from vintage coats. It's one hot and rare item that I secretly hope I don't see on anyone else's wrist! I'm having fun pairing it with an unlikely companion - a bright, beaded bracelet which I bought this summer in Estes Park, Colorado.

Trend I Can Get Down With

Photo source: Style.com
Christian Dior SS10 broke a long-understood fashion 'rule' by showing socks with toe-revealing wedges and heels in lacquered and shiny leather. It's easy for this look to appear awkward and tacky if the shoes themselves look cheap. But personally, I've always loved this apparent fashion no-no. It's even inspired me to sock-n-sandal it for the much-anticipated, Queen of Avant Goth Diamanda Galas show tonight at Pop Montreal. Just don't wear this look to the beach.

Montréal event - Stylist's Own

The second edition of Stylist's Own, a sale of one-of-a-kind and independent fashion and accessories from Montréal designers, will take place Oct 2nd - 4th in Old Montréal. This is a great opportunity to snag killer, unique items from some of Montréal's most cutting-edge designers. I'll be going to check out goods from two of my favorite designers: avant-gardeist Denis Gagnon and jeweler Harakiri. While I'll likely be picking up a few of their dark pieces for my own wardrobe, I especially invite my personal fashion styling clients in Montréal to come to this exciting event too! It will be a chance to shop through a very well-curated selection of fashionable wares in a beautiful space. See website for details.

Rad Hourani

Montréal-raised designer, Rad Hourani's, collection for Spring 2010 screams, 'Montréal'. I remember the first time I met Rad in 2006 (then, a stylist) at a fashion party in Montréal and looking around me at all the 'fashion types' and noting the Montréal fashion-elite uniform in full-swing. Everyone looked like they could have modeled in Hourani's runway show; skintight black silhouettes, angular elements mixed with the soft; each harbouring an appreciation for Rick Owens' assymetry and imperfection, Helmut Lang's androgyny, and Denis Gagnon's sense of proportion. Hourani's latest collection assumes the best aspects of the Montréal design and style scene and manages to articulate them in an original and exciting way. Photos: Style.com

Mix Print - Chicago

Here I am in Chicago's Millenium Park a couple of weeks ago, doing my best impersonation of a Japanese tourist. Note the mismatch of unlikely companions: a men's XL Obey floral tshirt (more like a dress on me) overtop of a pair of American Apparel's unisex swim trunks, and a bold, black and white striped long sleeve jumper from Chanel. I topped the whole thing off with a Japanese fabric bag. The results? Bat out of hell. But a super comfortable and happy bat.

Summer's Nearing End - North Vancouver

OSHEAGA/ Festival Garb

I'm at OSHEAGA Outdoor Music Festival this weekend in Montréal, covering it for CBC Radio 1. The festival uniform - dress for a bit of rain! - leaves something to be desired. The guys look like Dude clones in their cargo shorts and backwards baseball caps. It would be refreshing to see someone in one of these colorful, Acne jackets ($549) which, the company has poignantly named 'The Montreal Jacket'.

Fashion Shoot = fun!

'Backstage' fun among the crew on the set that I did fashion styling for over the weekend in beautiful Vancouver.
The woman in quirky glasses is the fabulous and talented make-up artist, Izabella Windak-Rabeda. Photos by Matthew Burditt.

Beauty trend: Eyebrowless

The New York Times reports that the early-90's look inspired by waif model icon, Kristen McMenamy, is bringing back an old trend in beauty with her cover shot of VOGUE ITALIA: no eyebrows. As I gear up preparation for styling a 90's-themed shoot this weekend, I've been poring over inspiring looks from the eyebrowless era, they follow below and feature Kristen.

I'm not sure if the eyebrowless trend will sweep the mainstream as it seems many women are still only finally beginning to embrace a slightly thicker (not quite 'bushy') more-80's inspired brow. Besides, it takes very good bone structure to get away with being eyebrowless, maybe save this freakish trend for the freakishly beautiful among us?

Maya Montage

Photography by Joseph Yarmush. I'm in the midst of designing my new website which will feature my portfolio as a stylist. I've just been streaming through fashion shoots that I've styled in as I decide what will go up on the site. I'd like to show a range of commercial to avant-garde and conceptual; from creatives to editorials. I came across this one shoot I did with a photographer friend in Montréal that I quite like the mood of; colorful yet subdued with a model of 'normal size'. Her name is Maya and she's wearing a mix of vintage, independent local Montréal designers, and of course - some of the stylist's (your's truly!) own designer duds and accessories. (Click on image to enlarge!)

White hot!

Luxurious minimalism at its best: head-to-toe white in Jil Sander Spring/Summer 09 looks. When it's crisp and clean, white-on-white is less angelic than it is über cool. White is not the most forgiving of shades, so if you've got a fit body, this is the bravest (and best!) way to show it off in style.

Layers make a mini into a... 'longi'?!

Fendi's great take on using layers to lengthen a hemline on a dress or skirt. The translucent, narrower sheath underneath keeps the look sexy - making it easy to play with volume on the top layer.

Le Jardin Botanique/Fashion Nurtures Nature

As I strolled through the Insectarium in Montréal's Botanical Gardens recently, I was drawn to recall how much of what is considered beautiful in our lives derives its inspiration from our natural environment. Each crawly bug on display looked like a jewel, or wait, is it that lustry jewels should remind us of nature? These bugs made me think of a different designer's collections in a specific season.












These looks from Matthew Williamson's Fall 2007 collection fit right in with the bugs; shiny and metallic textures, and rich jewel-tones. Fittingly, with my scaling up of my insect photographs, the models waists' look tinier than ever!
Click on this fragile but luxurious-looking butterfly below to see how it resembles the outfit from Chanel's Fall 2009 Couture line on the left.

Sports' Loss = Fashion's Inspiration

Italian swimmer, Flavia Zoccari, was forced to sit out her race yesterday when she experienced a massive malfunction in her $640 top-of-the-line swimsuit. Oh sure it was an accident! I predict a trend taking hold - lower 'peepholes' on suits. Bet she gets offered a swimwear endorsement out of it too! Daily Mail.

Quotable

My homeboy, Dan the Sparrow, putting his cute monster-like fingers up on either side of my face to 'quote' me at a party in Montréal earlier this month. Photo by Richmond Lam.

The King is Dead, Long Live the King!

It has almost been 24 hours since Michael died and it still feels surreal. Growing up as an 80's baby myself, my four other siblings and I were nothing short of obsessed with Michael Jackson. We had all the videos for Off the Wall, Thriller, and Bad recorded on scratchy copies of VHS tapes and we'd watch them every single day after school and copy the dance moves.
Michael was a truly transgressive figure who transcended tropes of sexuality and gender, focusing on his sheer talent and creative guts to come up with ways of moving that have changed the terrain of the music video forever. As the unrivaled creator of trademark dance moves like the moonwalk, robot, and the patented anti-gravity lean, the 'Smooth Criminal', Michael has proved he is a genius, unconventionally coupling fluidity and precision in each of his moves like no other before. As James Brown put it to Michael, "God bless a child who's got his own." Michael re-educated the world on the possibilities of how to move your body on the dancefloor and as a performer onstage. There will only ever be one man to justifiably name a dance move - the moonwalk - after something you could only achieve beyond the limits of earth. RIP Michael.

Prrrrrrr-ada

Music/Art/Fashion/Weekender

For the past five days, I've been running around partaking in the events, and performances of Montréal's MUTEK Festival. Highlights have included the satisfying assault of bass from Berlin's Moderat, accompanied by the simple and stunning visuals of PFADFINDEREI; and performances from Japanese noise artist Ryoji Ikeda and Carsten Nicolai, German techno and visual artist Robert Henke, and a phenomenal presentation from Belgian Visual Label, Anti-VJ which entails the life size projection of visuals on the façade of a building.
As I head off on my bicycle to catch PIKNIC Électronique, the daytime edition of MUTEK (imagine a 'mini rave', outdoors in the sun in the centre of a beautiful park), I leave you with my final nugget for the weekend: Karl Lagerfeld observes, Elena Glurdjidze, the senior principal ballerina with the English Ballet as she tries on Chanel's customed-tutu for her performance in the Dying Swan. The tutus vitals? "More than 100 hours of work have gone into making the tutu, many of these at Lemarié, the Chanel studio that is devoted entirely to plumassiers, or feather specialists." (The Guardian)

City of Style/City of Cycling

This month, Montréal, a city robust with cycling enthusiasts, joined the ranks of Paris by installing a new public bike system called, BIXI ('bike' + 'taxi'). All around the city, solar-powered and wireless stations provide made-in-Québec bikes that are free for the first half hour of use which, in such a small city, goes a long way!

The BIXI is a strong example of where government can put its money where it's mouth is. Simply asking people to leave their cars at home is not enough; incentive must be provided and new changes have to be facilitated. This well-strategized project offers a bike that is simple; easy-to-use, and hard to vandalize. Its designers believe that the BIXI system will pay for itself through user fees.
Cycling in such a stylish city requires some thought to attire... how about a pair of gorgeous bike riding "Grand Tour" gloves from 'performance roadwear' label, Rapha? Enjoy and, try not to drool on your computer...

Vena Cava Adora!!

I've got a gala to moonlight at for one special evening this summer. Now I'm mulling over the delightful debate: do I go with a gold or silver Vena Cava gown? This represents my favorite version of the high-waisted look; a long, slim silhouette in an elegant fabric.

Young Kate, Ever-Iconic

I had an odd dream last night involving a young Kate Moss, the very same fifteen year old from her famously controversial shoot with Corrine Day in 1989.
There is something inexplicably arresting about her look in the second image. No wonder her face haunts me in my dreams.

VOGUE Editor, Anna Wintour (aka Darth Vadar), Interviewed at Long Last...

(Click on 'Darth' for Anna's first long-length American interview, aired on 60 Minutes with Morley Safer May 17/09).
"If I'm such a bitch they must be glutton for punishment." - Anna on rumors that VOGUE employees put up with her alleged bullying tactics.

Who needs Calvin?

About ten years ago, Thom Yorke of Radiohead told me about how the band's guitarist, Ed O'Brien, was approached by Calvin Klein's people to model for them. Sensible Ed unsurprisingly declined the offer. As featured above in the pic from the band's website, DeadAirSpace, Ed comes across as rock n' roll sexy, stylish with ease, and iconic. In photos, Ed is downright striking. Ditto in-person.

Practically Impractical

4 M's: Montreal in May = Mutek & Michal

If you happen to be in Montréal in May, check out one of my favorite music festivals, MUTEK, which celebrates its 10th anniversary of bringing electronic and experimental artists to perform in the city.
Dope line up this year, including Moderat which features Apparat (whom I saw in Berlin - he's amazing!), and Modselektor. Last year, I did a piece on Mutek for CBC which featured an interview with my 'friend' and Montréal's own, Tim Hecker, who performed his set in a pitch black, sold out theatre. When it's good, MUTEK offers up shows that are a fantastic realization of the meeting point of art and music.

"Immaterial Box" by Michal Rovner
Also, in Montréal in May, contemporary art gallery, DHC, continues to uphold high curatorial standards by bringing by displaying an exhibition of work from American-Israeli artist, Michal Rovner.

SS09 Gucci Campaign- Vibrant Color, Mick Jagger Lookalike

Photographers: Inez & Vioodh Matadin
(Disclosure: The music in this video is CHEESY and spoils the images. Play on MUTE, or experience the wrath of fromaggio to the max!)


Puts me in the Spring mood for bold prints, luscious color combinations (purple, green), and posing dramatically in the fields with my friends... too bad talented photographers, Inez and Vinoodh, are never around to take stunning photos of us!

Blamma Blamma Balmain!!

The Telegraph just published the above photo with a caption about how stars are all over the Michael Jackson-inspired Balmain, exaggerated-shoulder, military jacket. Funny how a trend trickles to common folk too... I have found myself selecting superwide shouldered jackets from secondhand clothing racks myself. Last week at the Montréal Academy of Art and Video Awards, (where my best friend picked up an award for his amazing video!!!), I saw two Fine Art students wearing impressive - albeit goofy - coats mimicking the above ones. Leave it to the art kids to figure out how to make a zany trend wearable.

Giovanna Fan Club

Forget Spring, it feels like Summer is already here. I celebrated by wearing the most bizarre of outfits; I felt like (the awesome) Susie Bubble, blissfully mismatched and happy. Susie, whom, by the way, gave a very generous shout out in her blog, Style Bubble, to formerly-based-in-Montréal fashion journal, WORN, edited by my friend, Serah-Marie, in Toronto. Holler! Serah-Marie's asked me to write for WORN in the past but I was too busy at the time. However, it's fun to read fellow Montréalers work in the journal.

Also of note today, The Sartorialist included a post today covering one of my favorite style goddesses, Giovanna Battaglia, who is the editor of l'UOMO Vogue (Italian Men's Vogue). She looks fantastic in every shot he included but this is one of my favorites, in which she wears her confidence better than anything else. Beautiful!

Charlotte Gainsbourg?

Now that the international fashion weeks have finished making their rousing rackets, and the street style snappers have turned their cameras back to more spontaneous shots not taken en route to the shows, I will share my favorite: the one photo that pops to mind without having my memory jogged. I think the Sartorialist, Scott Schuman, owns this one. Love the rock star disguise, confidence, and sharp silhouette, especially against a backdrop of an overly fussed editor and a posh and polished woman.

Birthday brightening

I have this fun, unnecessarily narcissistic, completely self-indulgent ritual where, a couple of weeks prior to my birthday, I begin to make a mental list of what I'm going to get myself as gifts for my special day. Some things have been nixed from the list, including over-the-knee boots, a Vanessa Bruno bag, and a beater bike to replace my rusted one... (these things I'll save for another month or so down the road). There are, as usual, some books on the list including new fiction, philosophy, and a social economics gem. I'm also looking forward to getting myself a special piece from Harakiri, as well as some (overpriced!) fashion industry magazines to mull over for midnight soaks in the tub. Books, mags, jewelery? A good way to commemorate knocking off another year of my twenties.

I just picked up a couple pairs of platforms as early bday gifts to myself: a sturdy pair of caramel brown leather knockouts from Frye and these purple beauties from Charlotte Ronson:
They look fabulous with my tri-colored, knee high Prada socks. I'm in Vancouver right now - land of dour faces affected by the dark skies of late - where it has snowed, sleeted and perpetuated Gotham skies for the last month - not exactly the weather to start donning these slingbacks. HOWEVER, soon I get on a plane myself, to return to the happy homestead of Montréal where I'll be rockin' both pairs of my new shoes with a wild outfit every day, including on my birthday. Shows, shoots, styling sojourns with clients... can't wait! A trip to NYC is in the mix too. Fun city: HERE I COME.

Unlikely Musketeers

Large, lesbian singer, Beth Ditto, has been quoted dissing Kate Moss for her skinniness. Designer, Karl Lagerfeld, is notorious for being 'fat-phobic'. How did the three end up becoming pally at the recent FENDI party in Paris? Ahh, Kate's track record for befriending musicians (Pete Doherty, Mariana Faithful, James Hince), perhaps? Images from Style.com and Daily Mail.

Style Defined - Young Gun Days - Beatles & Rolling Stones

(New iconic Bob Bonis shots revealed to the public for the first time. Published in Telegraph). "Style is knowing who you are, what you want to say and not giving a damn." - Gore Vidal

Jennifer Aniston 'Goes Natural'

I always tell my personal styling clients that the two things most worth indulging in are 1) shoes, and 2) a haircut. I cannot overemphasize the importance of having a good haircut. After all, your hair frames your face and you have to wear it everyday. Good hair is a telltale sign of someone who cares to put their best foot forward. However, that being said, I guess we should lay down some boundaries. Like, say, maybe the cost of a haircut/blowdry needs to be a wee bit less than the reported several thousands of dollars Jennifer Aniston spent on her lid to walk down the red carpet at the premiere of Marley & Me.

Ahh... I get it. When Jennifer Aniston says in interviews that she prefers a 'natural look' she means, naturally expensive. Naturally.

Tower Power

Countdown: 25 days until my birthday. These Chanel puppies currently purring my name from atop shelves in Coco's boutiques have "Happy Birthday Raji" written all over them. They felt like walking on black, satin clouds. Gimme, gimme.
I did leave Chanel with something however; Chanel Hydrabase in Fire, Shade 65. Previously, I'd been wearing Chanel Lotus Rouge. Some girls do the big scents, no9, Allure etc. But Chanel lipsticks are my thing. I swear by their unique shades and rich texture. The bonus safety feature of my new one is that in case I require a rescue mission for some reason, this baby's bright enough to get my lips seen from outerspace. I know $42.00 is quite the hit to take for lipstick but hey, it's my signature. Muah!

Love is contagious!

LOVE, the much-anticipated new magazine from, Katie Grand, stylist extraordinaire, is out today. Loud mouth musical talent and wild-style icon, Beth Ditto, takes up the cover. I saw her perform once in 2000. I was blown away by the sexy, riotous confidence this singer exudes onstage with her punk/soul/rock outfit, The Gossip.

The Love blog posted this photo of their Collette store window take over in Paris. Uh, love it! Let the love clichés flow forth. Gotta go pick up my copy.

Happy Saint Valentines Day Lovers & Others!

Update: the day after Valentines, I received a BEAUTIFUL bouquet of flowers without a note, delivered to my doorstep. I found out that it's not from any of the usual suspects. Whoever had the gorgeous flowers delivered, are you reading this? Thank you!

Conspicuous much?

Image from Fffound
See Kanye's entourage run. See Kanye's entourage strike a pose. See Kanye's entourage for as far as the eye can see because, damn, that's a whole lot of prints, color and wacky or should I say, whacky??

His & Her's

Oh no! You ever have that moment of panic strike when one of your coveted items makes a "Best List," because you know that suddenly other people will, gulp... seek YOUR item out too? Men's Style.com just interviewed America's top buyers and one of them is calling the new Carrera shades the hottest ticket for your face in Spring 2009. I hope his prediction falls flat on its face but I fear that these shades - a former favorite of Porsche and Ferrari racecar drivers - will become regular fanfare next season.
On a recent shopping trip in Denver, Colorado (of all places?!), my best friend tried on a pair of these slick shades. His father is a retired pilot and so at some point, my pal adopted a pair of his dad's authentic vintage Carerra's. Obvious points for true vintage but I must say, there's no way the vintage pair of sunnies could compare to the pair of deep red/burgundy Carrera's he tried on in Denver. He looked so fine that my vanity/curiosity drove me to try on a similar pair (with gold accents), and the results? Undeniably hot. Now we have matching His & Her's.

That Karl Lagerfeld, he's such a bag!

Image via Style.com

Ruby, cherry, poppy, blood-red

Via Refinery 29: Fall/Winter 2009 menswear includes sleek suits in delicious shades of maroon, burgundies, and reds. Left to right:Looks from John Galliano, Lanvin, John Paul Gaultier, and Thierry Mugler.

Skin on skin / What's in a name?

Flesh-toned, natural, skin-colored. "Nude" is an interesting name for a 'color'. Who's nude does it refer to anyway? Not my brown skin, that's for sure. Not Grace Jones' skin either, I imagine. If she's in something that appears translucent and camouflages with her skin tone, it's called 'chocolate' by industry writers. If I go for the same effect, it's referred to as, 'mocha'. It's one of those subtle ways in which the fashion industry overlooks it's own silly contributions to a Caucasian-centric self-identity.

Above: Berlin designer, Kaviar Gauche on their F/W 2009 runway show (via fashionwirepress). What should the headline read? Models strut their stuff in near-invisible fabrics? Caucasian girls wear see-through garments the color of their own skin?

Slow to catch the geek boat?

Page6 in the New York Post ran the above image with a story about how Buddy Holly specs are all the rage. Martin Scorcese and Woody Allen must be smug about how this look has become an official trend.
Several years ago I lived in Berlin and was astonished at how ahead of the curve their style is; girls and boys alike are daredevils without much care for the finishing and details in their clothes. Elsewhere in Europe - in Paris, and London - you tend to see the start of a trend wave in highstreet shops. But in Berlin, you get a real stab at individuals - apart from the mainstream droves - doing something kooky, off-beat, 'fugly' and even unflattering with their style that then, takes another several years to become a major fashion trend in other cities. I remember seeing this phenomenon take place in Berlin with eighties asymmetrical haircuts long before they'd barfed out of salons in New York. Same goes for skinny jeans so tight they threatened to cut off the circulation of blood in your ankles. Now, many years after observing young Berliners balance clunky, vintage, nerdbomber eye glasses that occupy three-quarters of one's visage, geeky spectacles are being worn by fashionistas and celebrities.

I've been wearing a pair of nerdy, retro, slight cat-eye shaped, tortoise shelled Kio Yamato's for four years now. But I also love 'nerd' spectacles that stray from the Woody Allen effect; offering a less serious vibe. I have a pair of 1950's, white and gold Valentino's and my favorite; a newly acquired pair of black plastic-stemmed, John Lennonesque, circle shaped vintage Gianfranco Ferre's with gold detailing are awaiting new lenses at the optician as I type this.

I wear prescriptive glasses but I would wear nerdy glasses with fake lenses even if I had perfect vision because, like any other non-utilitarian accessory (a necktie, earrings etc)., spectacles can drastically change your look - even if just for a day.

Fads come and go, style stays

A few seasons ago, at an upscale store on Saint Laurent Blvd in Montréal, a salesperson complimented my footwear and asked, 'who I was wearing'. When I answered, "Costume National", the young and very trendy salesclerk snottily quipped, 'how surprising, because they're like, so irrelevant in the fashion world now'. Not that price alone dictates luxury boundaries, but it's not as though Costume is exactly a staple at mall outlets!

Recovering from my annoyance, I explained that Costume has proven longevity in an industry where many labels do not; they have a legacy of making well-designed, unique, comfortable and indeed, very fashion-forward footwear. The salesclerk had a point that most luxury label-toting twenty-somethings would rather wear an 'edgier' name from a label that may be nothing more than a trendy flash-in-the-pan, in one season and out the next. But for my money: quality and style go the mile, and not, what I like to call mere 'status apparatus.'

At the F/W 2009 shows that just happened in Paris, Costume National proved their style centric acumen in a collection which they claim was in part, inspired by David Bowie whose wardrobe has been worked on recently by Costume's designer, Ennio Capasa.

Ahh, if only every one of my male fashion styling clients could afford these duds. Comment est-ce qu'on dit, GORGEOUS?

Euphoric with Reason / Amazing Grace

Peep the technique

I DJ old soul music, I'm a radio host, I'm a fashion stylist. I write (and publish!) articles along the academic lines, creative lines... about philosophy, culture, fashion, AND music.

Peep the latest in San Francisco music mag, XLR8R:

http://media.xlr8r.com/files/magazine/pdf/XLR8R%20124.pdf

It's a PDF of the latest issue, so once you're there, type "Raji Sohal" in the search finder for, 'Crunk to the Future', an article of my musings on the development of a new'ish movement in the realm of hip hop and electronic.

Say word? C'est word.

Louis Vuitton meets Stephen Sprouse... again

Louis Vuitton honors New York fashion designer and artist, Stephen Sprouse, with a launch of a new collection in his name at the LV SoHo flagaship store. Sprouse's own collections never sold nearly as well as did his collaboration with Louis Vuitton in 2001, which exploited Sprouse's dope, iconic graffiti logos. I don't know a single skater who'd pay the $8,250 damage for this totally ridiculous and yet enviable skateboard and trunk. Maybe a skater-poser like Avril Lavigne?? Although, I'm in the market for some luxury luggage and I must admit, that neon cotton-candy pink does look hot...

FENDI Monster

Before leaving for Hawaii, I was warned by friends and colleagues alike, that fashion is of no concern for locals there and I should expect nothing but a barrage of 'bikinis and boardshorts'. They were right. But they have a point: what other attire would I require when our days were spent relaxing on my friend's lush, ten-acre property (featured above) on the Big Island; lounging on white sand beaches, black sand beaches, jumping in the ocean, dipping into freshwater lakes in the middle of secluded forests, and general relishing of the sun's rejuvenating rays on my browning skin?! Hawaii may not be a fashion destination but I'm convinced, that it is a place for nature's magic to reveal itself in full-force.

Yet, it became apparent very quickly that between spaghetti-strap tanktops (ick) and string bikinis, Big Island locals stick to a strict dress code of 'hot weather very casual'. Already accustomed to sticking out like a sore thumb everywhere else in life, I mostly rocked 'Mrs. Roper" dresses: lightweight, floor length, wild-patterned vintage dresses. My Mrs.Roper gowns ended up being an appropriate and versatile choice; thrown over a swimsuit or worn to dinner with heels, they're an equal mix of practical and pretty.

After a couple of weeks on Big Island, we flew to Oahu for a very different experience - to kick it at a friend's extravagant penthouse suite with a view that reaches the mountains on one side and the beach on the other. We were only minutes away from the infamous beach mecca, Waikiki, where naturally, one would expect to see evidence of a higher fashion consciousness. The status on style? Negative. This was surprising: doesn't every major city have at least one pocket of unique fashion, a place where style mavericks dare to be boldly different than the rest of the sheep? Or, if nothing else, a place where status-motivated individuals boast a different major label to every garment they don?

My friend suggested we check out a fancy open-air 'mall' in Honolulu that housed some impressive high-end boutiques and we might check there for some style inspiration. Despite my obsession with fashion, a mall is the very last place I'd want to be while vacationing in glorious weather. Shouldn't we be spending every available waking hour gallivanting on the beach? We checked out the mall - Ala Moana - regardless, because what's a quick perusal of inspiring windows at Gucci, Louis Vuitton, and Chanel, right? What happened next is a bit of a blur.

Between the two of us, we tried on about one-hundred thousand dollars worth of clothes and, I am not exaggerating. "You really have to try it on to see how it looks" is more than an empty sales pitch; it is gospel. The staff at Ala Moana were the friendliest I've ever encountered in luxury boutiques anywhere. Experiences at the same boutiques in London, Paris and New York have never proffered such superb customer service. As we browsed from boutique to boutique, we admired the innovation in textiles at Prada, the attention to detail in the painstaking patterns in Chanel suits, and the luxurious fabrics at Louis. It was was as though our style appetites devoured these gems for nourishment as we salivated our way to the one boutique that stole my heart more than it ever has in the past - FENDI.

I have learned that I am certifiably a FENDI monster. I tried on every dress that remained on the racks from the Fall/Winter collection. Including the following items:
This one-shoulder, black silk, floor length gown actually looks better without a belt, in my opinion. I tried it on in two-sizes too big for me and the slouch actually showed the genius draping off better than it would if it fit super tight everywhere.
I also tried on the above leather jacket. It was part-Matrix and part-Victorian for its ruffles and rouches. I think they should have shown it on the runway without the accessories of a belt and satchel because it would have shown off the details of the intricate design on this handsewn leather masterpiece.

From fashioning myself, albeit briefly, in so many FENDI's ready-to-wear items, I've learned that Karl Lagerfeld and his cronies in Italy are geniuses at fit. Every single gown, dress, skirt, or blouse that I tried on fit me as though it was a couture piece; made-to-measure for my hips, narrow waist, prominent shoulders and long legs. Beyond perfect fit, at this point in my life, the signature classiness of FENDI with its hard-edged self-assuredness is exactly my style right now. For the last few years my look has been deeply influenced by Rick Owens (goth-rocker glam that plays with the skinny silhouette and volume) and Prada (techy, confident femininity). But what I tried on at FENDI was at once flattering and style-defining. Each piece became a statement when I tried it on; declarations of fun, playfulness, style acumen, and of quality.

In particular, one item at FENDI (shown above on models at a FENDI party) made me drool more than others: a Resort Collection navy-blue overall with crisscross racerback suspenders and a wide-leg trouser. Holy Mother of All Mothers. At the pricetag of $1,310 USD I considered what an investment it would me in not only my future, but the dynamite one-piece seemed like a good reason to have kids too; shouldn't a beautifully tailored and unique item like this be an heirloom?

My friend found his favorite piece at FENDI too. A purple and black dyed chinchilla cape. Only he could get away with this one. The pricetag: $45,000 USD.




The cape looked so undeniably good on him that the manager approached us and offered a 30% discount without hesitation. Now, 30% makes quite the dent on something that costs as much as a decent luxury car. However, no takers here, unfortunately!

white on white

The color white symbolizes everything from the sacred and pure to the sterile and abstract. These images from an installation by Japanese label, w r i t t e n a f t e r w a r d s, reveal how even in the absence of color, the shade white can still provide a powerful presence through a variation in texture and play with layered materials.

2008 eCard Awards

E-cards have become de rigeur no doubt. I talked about it with the amazing Geeta Nadkarni, an eco celebrity on the national news at CBC Television in Canada. "Raji Sohal, a personal shopper and stylist extraordinaire shares her funky and innovative ideas for making wrapping paper and cards as exciting and useful as the gifts themselves." You can check out our clip by clicking here.

Now that the festive season has ended, I have to share my favorite eCard. It happens to be the one below from my pal, an artist known as Jack Dylan.Full disclosure: I took this photo of Jack during an impromptu photoshoot a couple of months ago, after a day spent personal shopping with Jack and the night before he embarked on an extended European adventure. We dolled him up in his some, let's say, 'unusual' but stylish items he suddenly acquired from someone. I like Jack's holiday eCard for two reasons: the 'killer' Top Gun expression, and the 80's font used in the 'Seasons Greetings' message. (Sidenote: I did a fun interview with Jack for my CBC Radio 1 column, 'Raji on the Verge' which aired a couple of months ago. When I figure out how to upload it to this Blogger post, I'll put it up so you can hear it!).

The runner-up award for best eCard goes to my friends, 'Rocky' and 'Todd' who sent me this xmas card from their recent sabbatical in Hawaii.

My girl, Viv

Ahh, Vivienne. All I know about her is a concoction of tidbits from obsessive research and undying curiosity dating as far back as being thirteen years old. She was the first designer whose clothes I fell in unrequited love with. When I started making my own clothes as a teen, my first tendency was to rouche the fabric the way Westwood does, and, to add bustles, and exaggerated volume. The few pieces I own of her's are a bit oddball, they make me look like a punk pirate with an eye for dirty luxury.

Since, then, the appreciation has not faded. I don't adore every single piece in her collections, but I do find that each show has something - an idea, a look, a silhouette, that is worth taking away. Foremost, Viv's an uncompromising visionary. Less affected by season trends than many of her fashion cohorts, there is a certain consistency in everything the Vivienne Westwood house produces: Victorian structure, unadulterated punk nastiness, collage colors, volume, architectural draping, and beauty: beauty in something radically broken.

In the attached clip (click on the image above), wild Vivvie speaks candidly at her Spring/Summer 2009 show about staying away from compulsive bargain shopping. She suggests instead, "Buy less, let it grow old, and choose well." I couldn't agree with her opinion more, but her propsed solution for the scant wardrobe is a bit insane: 'next time you're at a loss, pull down your curtains and wrap yourself in that instead!' In her words, "If you don't have too much... You can make things out of your tablecloth or curtains. Don't get depressed! " Aww, Viv. Who would of guessed you were such a practical girl?

In Bloom

I guess I'm supposed to provide the requisite explanation for my absence over the last many months? Here goes.... I took up a gig as a Host of two shows at CBC Radio 3, a station which explores indie music, I moved apartments, and well, accidentally overhauled most aspects of my life. If Voltaire had a whirlpool instead of a garden, I think my twenty-something mind would have a better grasp of what he meant. My life has been like a whirlpool spitting out whatever pieces of inspiration that are not being cultivated at the centre. Spit, cultivate, spit, cultivate, hit repeat. I have realized that some of the biggest (and best) changes have to be brought onto you, they have to happen to you rather than you seeking them out. How's that for a vague disclaimer?
Sightings:
Last week I was in New York again and in an art gallery I approached a bespoke woman speaking French whom I believe was Julliette Binoche. I told her she was beautiful. She asked if I could be paid to say that to her every day. I asked, how much? Vanity is so expensive. Someone asked to take my photo for a Swedish style magazine the other day and I must admit, I almost had the same reaction as my Madame Binoche.
Last month I went to Paris with friends and I smiled at a frazzled Stella McCartney in the 9th arrondisement. She looked at me like she had just finished telling a joke and trying to conceal a giggle.
Off to NY again for a fun fashion research trip. But not until I share something that Oxfam in the UK is doing which I think is ace!

(Image: Guardian. Models showing off designer pieces sold at Oxfam, and that's designer, Henry Holland, in shorts!)

Oxfam, a charity shop that has long been selling affordable second-hand clothes to raise money for international development aid is joining forces with young designers from the London College of Fashion. The students will be reworking clothes donated to the charity's new 'boutique' opening in the posh shopping quarter in Westbourne Grove, London.

It's no secret that I love my secondhand shopping. I've visited several Oxfam stores in the UK and I've always thought that they could use a face lift. There is no need for "used" clothing to carry the stigma of tattered out-of-date fashion, nor is there reason for "vintage" stores to be considered stodgy.

The injection of high fashion elements into the secondhand clothing industry is just one key step in changing public perception around sustainable fashion. And this is all for charity? Sheesh! Couldn't be better.
Link to original story in The Guardian.

Fini!

I've been away from my blog not because of my lack of interest in fashion but because of my interest in fashion! For the last month of my life I've been directing and organizing this year's POP Montreal Fashion Show. Six very talented independent designers showcased their collections and competed for a Young Designers Award valuing $2000 sponsored by the clothing company, Le Chateau. Highlights included LA rapper, Giovanni Marks (aka Subtitle), strutting his stuff on the runway in a bather from Toronto-based clothing company Minnow. It was truly a pleasure to work with all the creative people that helped make this event a success. Please check out the Puces Pop website link for a peak at the designers who showed in this year's fashion showcase.
Anomal Couture (designer, Sonia, featured third from left with some of her designs) was judges' top pick. An Anomal dress is beautifully made, well-constructed and fits like a glove you wish you never had to take off.

juliette

Juliette Binoche is set to the play what critics are calling a 'female James Bond' in an action blockbuster called A Few Days in September. But, in my opinion, she can't really be compared to prior Bond iconic femme fatale leads. Juliette promises more depth of character. Will casting her affect the quality of this action-thriller script? Will her dialogue have to reflect the actor's braininess and powerful talent? I hope so!

girl/boy/girl

Ever notice a woman so striking she deserves the description, "handsome"? A masculine undertone can be brazenly feminine on a beautiful frame or a stunning face. Think Cate Blanchett as Katherine Hepburn in the Aviator. Think rocker, Chrissie Hynde.

But what happens when this aesthetic paradigm of androgyny is reversed? Is The Cure's Robert Smith in his smeared red lipstick as desirable as the tough Patti Smith in her equally messy hair and button-down shirts?










For some (probably Freudian or capitalist) reason, the masculine feminine seems to hold more 'beauty' cache than the efeminite male. Case in point, this photo of a statuesque woman... er, or is it, of a beautiful man?
According to The Sartorialist, this photo is of a man named Martin. But I thought it was of an eye-catching woman. Does the way the image strikes you change depending on the gender of the figure? If fashion is meant to be bold, interesting and conceptually daring, this boygirlboy punk poseur is either the epitome of fashion, or its cliché.

elvis week

Photo source

Fashion trend news flash! White jumpsuits emblazoned with crystal embellishments are ALL THE RAGE this season. No, really. These kids are too rad. I had to share. I think I have the same shades as them.

new york burning, brightening, melting, storming

My trip with a few special friends to New York was more fun than I could have asked for.


We stayed in a gorgeous loft in Brooklyn with a view overlooking the bridges and the glistening, (albeit, likely dirty), waters separating Manhattan from BK.


Being well-nourished foodies, we got smoothies at Refresh, brunch at Egg, and lunch at Taco Chulo in, all before 3pm. Not to mention, a nap on the lush grass of McCarren Park in Greenpoint.

We caught the tail-end of KRS-ONE's positively preachy free outdoor performance at Prospect Park as part of 'Celebrate Brooklyn'. He closed the set with an emphatic, "Five minutes before you fall asleep at night, I want you to SEE YOUR FUTURE! SEE YOUR FUTURE!" It sounded like a StarTrek prophecy. What future, Mr.KRS? So confusing.

For the next couple of days, we all did serious damage to our credit cards with shopping. While New York is an inspiring place for 'window shopping', it's even more fun when you walk away with the very item you fell in love with.

I got a pair of Mociun shorts from new charming women's wear boutique, Honey in the Rough. The designer behind the print-based clothing line, Caitlin Mociun, attributes the illustrations of outsider artist Henry Darger as one of the main inspirations behind her wild and bizarre prints. Think tribal lines on comfy fabrics. The print that appears on this Mociun dress is the same one as on my new Mociun shorts.


Next stop: one of my favorite new shops in the Lower East Side, Dear:55, run by Japanese expat, Moon Rhee, who sold me a unique copper ring with a dagger in the centre.

Moon assured me that the quality of the ring was supreme, and that the design was one-of-a-kind exclusive, made by someone with whom he works closely. While I believe the latter of the two points, I'm afraid the quality left much to be desired. For the price tag, (which I ashamedly, shan't repeat!), a ring should not make your finger 'go green.' Nonetheless, I do love the design.

At Dear:55, I also found a DADA bracelet that I'm still pining for (hint hint to friends in nyc), and a pair of Japanese designer, Miharaya Sohiro, shoes that I love.










Sadly, they were three sizes too big. Moon assured me that all the cool kids in Japan are buying their shoes oversized, but c'mon, I looked like a stylin' clown in these metallic beauties. Besides, I was done taking purchase advice from Moon: fool me once shame on you, fool me twice...

After a day of flexing some purchase power, we lunched, standing up and cramped elbow-to-elbow, in what I consider to be the best Indian "restaurant" in NYC. They offer straight-up Punjabi cuisine, where you can eat heartily for $4. The food's delicious but don't expect 'ambiance.' The four of us didn't say a word until we consumed the last of our saag paneer and thanked the friendly staff twenty minutes later. They're located at Houston and 1st.

After a bootless attempt to see Blonde Redhead for free in the park, we went to our generation's cool-kid haven, Enid's. I've never seen so many disgruntled hipsters in such volume. (Pic of the establishment during a quieter time, below, from NYT)

Speaking of Blonde Redhead, I'm told that leadsinger Kazu Makino, gets some of her dresses custom-made at Lyell. I fell in love with two dresses in particular at Lyell.

I couldn't decide which one to purchase, so I got both! My best friend bought one of them for me, and its featured above. The other one (no photo) is ruby red; a real apple pie gem that fits as if it were custom cut for my body. I absolutely love both of them. Shopkeeper, Sasha, was super sweet and very helpful. I made a pact with myself that there will be no more new dresses for the rest of the year. What can I say? I fell in love. Can't deny a girl a little love.

For dinner, we went to my mate, Rhea's, new pad in Carrol Gardens where we met her lovely friends. We eventually made it out to the Brooklyn Social where Rhea's buddy, Joaquin - an extraordinary bartender in his own right - broke down the serious science of a properly mixed drink.
Back to fashion business...

The proliferation of the high-end men's sneaker boutique in New York is a bit tired now. I get the formula now, place shoes behind streakless glass, spotlight them as though they were a piece of art or jewelry, and have a bouncer buzz customers into a dark wood room. The first time, it's clever merchandising. But after experiencing the schtick five times, it's just unnecessary posturing.

We were on a mission to find a pair of dope (but not ostentatiously nu-rave colored), sneakers for J which, ultimately we did find, two pairs in fact, at ClassicKicks. The staff there were the most friendly and helpful out of all the high-end sneaker shops. After walking out of the store with a new pair of sneaks on his feet, J dropped his old RUN-DMC Adidas off outside the shop.

R.I.P. 2001 - 2007

While we weren't really scurrying to fit in too many gallery exhibitions this visit, we were all keen on going to PS1 which was unfortunately closed when we visited on a Tuesday afternoon. argh!














We wandered around around Five Points, a 'legal' graffiti site in Long Island City.



We thought it would be hilarious to make like the German tourists and go on a Hip Hop Tour of Brooklyn, hosted by 'Hush Tours,' (you *must* check out their website), but at $55 a ticket, this hip hop knowledge seemed just way out of our league.

No trip for an indie fashionista on the loose in NYC is complete without a visit to the store Opening Ceremony where the current merchandise theme is, fittingly, "USA vs. Sweden"- a clever venture given the extreme trendiness of Swedish design right now.

J bought a simple, 2-button, midnight black blazer from brand new Scandinavian clothing line, Pour. Pudel offer creative non-gendered garments. I got the black Pudel cardigan featured below.
My cardigan has neat detailing which would make my mother pause and remark, "Your sweater's ripped! What - you paid for a sweater with a hole in it??"

I also found a pair of simple, old-man-looking, navy blue flats from Hope Clothing. I didn't buy them. I should have. I have since dreamt up numerous scenarios in which, I imagine, those shoes would be particularly happy holding up my tired ankles. alas...

And randomly, since my appreciation for trouser socks is never waning, I bought a pair of oddball socks.

Our last day was spent stumbling dumbstruck through the Botox-ville quarters of Manhattan, but quickly found refuge and solace beneath one of the world's most generous trees. We let its branches weigh heavy just above our bodies, as we lounged, gratefully, in its shade.

For the pond alone, I don't think I'll ever tire of Central Park.

Seeing the Broadway version of the atrocious eighties box office crash, Xanadu, at the Helen Hayes Theater, will remain not only a highlight of the trip, but also, of my life.

After the thee-ahtah, we ate dinner at the swanky restaurant, Stanton Social, which, was deeelish!

Joaquin hosted us at his bar, Death & Co., a probition-era-inspired speakeasy. We woke the next morning to brave the storm that struck NYC at 7am while we sat aboard our plane waiting for it to pass.

For our whirlwind time in NY, I'm sorry that I didn't have a chance to cross paths with several of my mates who currently reside there, but I should be back for New York fashion week next month.

p.s. Pizznadstrrr und Jazzersizeman, & wonderful J.V. in particular, made this trip really fun, and fantastic. Je vous aime beaucoup!

bisous, comme toujours. . .
fashyawn minute

les vacances - Off to New York!

oK, fine. it's just for 5'ish days. but still. this time its purely for leisure. we're staying in a gorgeous loft and looking forward to enjoying what feels like the hottest weather 2007 has seen yet. there are already 7 concerts on the running list of things-to-do, a few parties to attend, friends to see, a couple of visionary exhibits to be caught, and much much shopping to be done. and, critically, a bit of neighborhood-scouting is in the game plan since, i can envision moving to nyc sometime in the near future. bon fin de semaine tout le monde.

a communist's idea of luxury

Nobel Peace Prize winner and former president of a communist nation, Mikhail Gorbachev, has a new job: starring in a fashion magazine ad for luxury brand Louis Vuitton. It would seem that the term 'luxury' has radically changed since the Cold War - from having a negative connotation that threatens social virtue, to a cunning scheme supporting consumption.

tacky, and delicious, luxury

No, it's not a piece of that ubiquitous Louis Vuitton luggage that you're looking at. It's an

edible cake! My friend knows the happy couple who had the remarkably authentic LV-looking

cake made for their wedding shower. How lucky for luxury brands when they can just sit back,

while the mainstream masses gladly take on the task of free and volunteer advertising for

them!Here is another one I found online, and another; this one from Truly Scrumptious Designer cakes in Scotland. At $950, the edible version is still cheaper than the leather one!

Leonard Cohen

Pictured above is my friend, Tamara, (on the left), and in the middle is Mr.Leonard Cohen. Tamara ran into "Leo" on the street in Montréal the other day. They had lunch together the following day. It's a bit bizarre to see my friends pictured so nonchalently next to the talented musical icon.

white hot summer

two of my favorite people in the whole wide world. shown above here, vogueing/grime'in and dancing the hall recently. the fellow on the right, sports one of my favorite vintage ghettotastic finds - a circular gold medallion with the profiles of a boy and girl facing one another, two hearts touching beneath them. I know, it's just too perfect.










and this is Oscar and I shakin' it in our summer whites. it was the debut of my new white-on-white perforated buttery-soft leather Chuck Taylor high-top booty beauties. studies have shown that they make the dancefloor hot... real hot.

fashion in berlin? how ideal!

This is one of my dearest friends, Jennifer Ann Gilpin, a Montréal-based clothing designer, featured here in a photo taken on the weekend at the fashion tradeshow, IDEAL, and posted on the streetwear blog, Stil in Berlin. Jennifer's wearing her own garments here and the ones hanging on the rack behind her are also from her most recent (and brilliant) collection which, I happened to do the styling for. Her collections are the perfect symbiosis of the stylish and the conceptual. Here are two of my favorite pieces from the new collection - a black jumpsuit with adjustable leg length, and a morphable dress/shrug/cape in stretch twilight gray.



Photographs by Jason Sanchez & Elena Willis.

Attack of the YSL nerds

photo source. I was comforted when I saw this photo of these irresistible nerds. Mostly because on the day I stumbled across this photo, I too happened to be wearing my own version of the uniform above - a pair of clunky Kio Yamato glasses and a voluminous vintage Lanvin cream blouse, with my long hair tied back - but felt a bit more frumpy than this duo looks. I'm not sure that their outfits are so amazing so much as their demeanor is, absolutely charming.

Galliano garb

Couture week is ON. Dior versus Valentino. Classicism versus Modernism. You know the drill. John Galliano is celebrating a decade as being the genius behind the latest era in design at Dior which would normally warrant a triumphant mini-retrospective but instead the collection (as seen in these lovely images from Style.com) appeared to be pulling inspiration from all over the place - literalizing the work of painters like Degas and Picasso and fashioning them into garments.

This won't be his most memorable collection for me, but lassoing in the old supermodels such as Helena Christensen, Naomi Campbell, Giselle Bundchen and Shalom Harlowe added grandeur and a sense of Gallaino's influence on the fashion world over the years.

All the rage in Asia...

This is milner Eugenia Kim's sketch of a visor for Michael Kors' upcoming Spring 2008 collection. Today, as temperatures soared to 41 degrees Celsius (or 106 for you Farenheiters out there) where I live, I would have died for a visor like this one. Too bad we have to wait another year until it's on the market. In the meantime, I recollect seeing a more urban, all-out-function Matrixy visor when I was in China. Looks something like this one below taken from "The Sun Cap Company." The Kim version is brilliant, and ahem, much more wearable. But you've got to admit that the Chinese one is just so much more fierce. So much more Easy Rider.

Hattitude

Only a certain kind of dame can pull off a quirky yet elegant hat such as this one. The weightless feathers rooted on her crown and pointing in different directions, makes me wonder if the milner took inspiration from a weather vane. So, while I don't imagine I've seen any madames daring to be so bold with their headgear recently, maybe it's because wearing an unusual hat takes more than just a pretty hat, but more importantly, the confidence to wear it. This British (of course) woman has got hattitude to spare. Image via Getty Images.

Comedy or Tragedy?

Friends, wardrobe wayfarers, quelques fois naysers: what do you make of the above photos borrowed belovingly from pro-photog-blogger, Facehunter? Without a doubt, Yvan Rodic - the man behind the brilliant docu-blog, Facehunter, is in-touch with street-style and pure wacky ensembles - inspiring spades of copycat fashionistas the world over. Scanning Facehunter has become a fun and irreverent morning ritual for me. The best is when I see shots like the ones above which, are punctuated with sliding my laptop screen over to my friend, and asking, "comedy or tragedy?" My friend thought the image on the left was a pirate gone overboard (a tragedy), and the Lion King-in-teased-bangs and a royal purple dress was a humorous effort (comedy).

T-shirt transformer

animal collective

British jewelry designer, Emma Franklin makes the animal kingdom wearable. The ferocious hippo cuff links are my favorite!

He loves me, he loves me knot

"Forget-me-knot" ring by Brooklynite, Kiel Mead. Available in gold and silver: one for each of you.

Earrings by Lisa Levine: a waterfall dripping with chain in knots. Gorgeous, non?

CFDA bits and bobs

After rifling through all the photos I could find online of the 2007 CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America) awards, beyond the usual parade of gauze and silk, plastic pulled faces and hobnobbing celebrities, there were a few oddities to note, and here they are:
In fashion spreads and adverts, Ms. Lily Cole usually looks like something out of a dreamscape or an enchanting fairytale. However, without the primed makeup and ideal angle, I'm afraid she looks a bit deranged here; her copper tresses like a frayed carpet, and that perpetually annoyed look in her eyes. Ah well, still love her!Donna and Gaby Karan: can you spot which one is mom and which one is daughter?
Margherita Missoni and Derek Blasberg stood out at the CFDA Awards with their quirky outfits. I like Blasberg's tie - it's short and stout and goes against the grain of the omnipotent 'skinny' tie trend.

Agyness Deyn in Nick Knight video for 2007 CFDA Awards

(click on image to view video)

Finally the coup

In a couple of days I'll be donning this fine and nerdy regalia when I graduate from my Master of Arts in Art History and Communication Studies (finally! i actually completed my two-year degree one year ago, but it is only granted now).

My thesis was a happy 150 pages about the sound art of Janet Cardiff: phenomenology, schizophrenia, and bare life; Deleuze, De Certeau, and Foucault. And now, after two years of reading, writing, and researching myself into dizzy spells, it's time to 'walk the stage'.

The notion behind non-righteous ritual and 'ceremony' has always appealed to me. Events that embody agnostic traditions (everything from birthdays and weddings, to vernissages and house warmings) cycle throughout my life and remind me that so much about the world can change and yet there are these resilient repetitions of ceremonies that we take part in and will continue to take part in for centuries more. If most ceremonies are intended to celebrate a major event, then why not indulge in more ceremonies and a little celebration?

I never attended the graduation ceremony for my BA, but the folks are flying in for this occasion and so I've decided I'm going to enjoy it. I'm going to do like Prince, and party like its 1999. All over again. I'm going to enjoy wearing the floppy regalia and that unnatural-looking hat that resembles a thin book balancing on your head. I'm going to revel in the Dean of Something shaking my hand, mispronouncing my first AND last names, and giving the audience that odd expression (which tends to range anywhere from 'goofy and apologetic' to a 'proud and penetrating' stare). I'm going to study and puzzle over the Latin words on my degree parchment, declaring my new "Master of Arts" status. I'm going to pose for my family and friends, so that they may take the requisite nerdy photos of me in front of legacy statues on campus, all the while, the university flag flapping and flying victoriously behind me, in the sun on such a glorious, glorious day. (ha! okay, so maybe i won't be so earnest and serious about the whole affair, but i can promise, i'll be laughing and having a ball).

Cuckoo for Coco

I love the beyond-adorable Audrey Tautou: I'm charmed by her onscreen charisma and fresh naivetee. But I'm curious; can she really hack playing the part of the notoriously tough, and at times, harsh, Coco Chanel?

Anything but nirvana

"Nirvana means freedom from pain, suffering, and the external world, and that's pretty close to my definition of punk rock." Hardly the words of a staunch capitalist, are they? Last week, Doc Martens was forced to pull its add featuring rock icon and broken-hearted genius, Kurt Cobain, in an advertising campaign for their footwear. When I first saw the above image of the lead man from new wave/punk rock band, Nirvana, I though it had to be a spoof - like an Adbusters take on how wrought capitalism can be: co-opting all things with cool factor, and in its epitomized version, it even goes after the dead - worst of all, a guy who openly criticized hip culture and trendiness. But no, although ultimately ironic, this was not a joke. This is one of those examples of when irony is just sad. Kurt Cobain was original, beautiful and talented in his music; intelligent, witty and lucid in his interviews. He was critical of consumerism, the uncontrollable beast that is celebrity, and weary of a music industry that thrived on hyping and categorizing him as the saint of "grunge", and the "Seattle scene".

The logic of Saatchi and Saatchi (the publicity company behind the ads), is clear: cool kids emulate their heroes. put dead rock hero in Docs = cool kids buy Docs. Et voila! A recipe for street cred is made. How they think Kurt could have possibly been happy with being in an ad is incredulous to me, especially seeing as how he famously stated, that he'd "rather be dead than cool," and, how "Wanting to be someone else is a waste of the person you are." But the ultimate slap in the face is creating an ad that exploits a dead man's legacy by morphing his iconic history; effectively changing what he goes down in history for by transforming what his iconic status stands for. And this publicity feat can be achieved simply by mucking with an old image of the rocker. Taking a 'copy of a copy' in this instance, actually changes what the original comes to symbolize and represent, particularly to those who are newly introduced to who Kurt is/what he stood (and stands) for, and all in order to advertise a product as "cool". Irony indeed, for Kurt, a man who once said, "I'd rather be hated for who I am, than loved for who I am not." And, a celebrity endorser, he was not.

daria daria

Photo: Delphine Achard
I love this photo of Ms. Daria Werbowy - sophisticated old glamor and unleashed attitude.

skin: portraits

A fashion-in-motion visual treat from the talented team at SHOWSTUDIO:
http://showstudio.com/projects/skin/portraits/

Not goth-proof

Too often when I go out, I have to make wardrobe concessions due to logistical reasons. On the weekend, this meant wearing an outfit that would take into consideration dressing for all of the following elements in one night: picnicking in the park, bicycling in the dark, a get-together at a friends' studio, and dancing at... goth night. My shoes of course had to be comfortable, and since I was wearing a Primark mini, and killer - or at least, cute - quality shoes were key to make the outfit chic and keep me on my feet. For their versatility, trademark comfort, adorable rounded toe, and generous heel (all the better to run about, jump, and dance in!), I broke out my pale hued pumps from Chie Mihara. For fear of injuring these lovely gems, I've only worn them on two occasions, but I finally decided that since they are THE MOST COMFORTABLE heel EVER, it was time to integrate them into my activity-filled schedule. "Why be so precious with the clothes we love?" Right? Well, here's why...
If you have a pair of Chie's, you can understand that their pliable and supple leather reigns supreme in comfort. I danced the night away without a care in the world... that is, until the DJ played Bauhaus goth anthem, Bela Lugosi's Dead, and dancefloor mayhem exploded - - - panic really struck when an enthusiastic goth (I know, hard to believe) trampled on my foot by accident while dancing in his viciously spiked red boots. I got gothed! Needless to say, one of my beloved Chie's is hurt - their is a tear in the leather on the heel that's been crumpled like a used Kleenex. To boot - there's even the residue of vampire blood (okay, like PVC or something) on the heel. Who's to blame; Chie Mihara for making an expensive shoe whose leather couldn't withstand the wrath of a prancing goth? or, me for thinking these pumps could go out for a night on the town without getting brutalized? I remain, Shoeless and pondering.

The handbag ate my homework

Momobomba's handbags are made out of real classwork and exercise sheets from first-graders, and lined with old t-shirts. Now this is some homework that your dog better not eat!

vacker herre

In honour of seeing Sweden's best current band, Peter Björn and John's sold-out performance last night (tack så mycket to John for Oscar's guest list invites!) here is my favorite photo - a picture of youth - from the Sartorialist's latest post, in what is his first jaunt to Stockholm.

. . . Peter Björn and John, by the way, were brilliant live; scissor kicks, slick dancing, and fancy drumming tricks. Here's the video for Young Folks, off their latest album, Writer's Block.

MAW of the Moment

Actress Scarlett Johansson rehearses for her singing (?!) performance with the band, 'The Jesus And Mary Chain' at cool kid music festival Coachella.

Scarlett Jo has been everything from the face/body of Louis Vuitton adverts to an actress in Woody Allen flicks, and now apparently, she's a singer too. I think that she's less of a renaissance woman than she is, just the MAW (Model, Actress, Whatever) of the moment. She should try out for American Idol next season.

Reduce, recycle, and RE-USE!

"I know this is an environmentally friendly shopping bag aimed at encouraging people to ditch their plastic bags for this more eco-friendly option, but the truth is I won't," said one would-be fashionista."The bottom line is it looks great and I don't want to any squashed tomatoes, cracked eggs or spilt milk on it." Source

Now that the £5 Anya Hindmarch re-usable cloth bags have completely sold out (besides the ones available on eBay for £200), let's hope that these precious bags actually get used and re-used for what they were meant to - carrying grocery, books etc., and not just as a coveted fashionista symbol.

Mom jeans

Fabulous image comes to you via HipCandy.
The verdict on high-waisted jeans is that they are officially "in"; a trend legitimated from designer apparel all the way down the fashion food chain to TopShop, H&M, and Zara. I'm of two minds on this trend: I love the high-waisted and wide-legged sailor pant, but the skinny pant version is unflattering; creating what I refer to as "long-bum syndrome". Are you in on this trend?

Wild maximalism

The exuberant Björk is back! Here she is photographed by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin for her upcoming new album, Volta.

A Smart Start

Leisa Barnett from Vogue reports that the best designer boutique in East London, Start, is finally selling its clothes online; making them available to international customers. A favorite of designer, Sadie Frost, the Shoreditch locale provides unique and bespoke men's and women's wear with a rock n' roll edge, featuring designers from Phillip Lim to Miu Miu, and "quirkier" independent labels. When I recently interviewed Start shopkeeper, Ross, for a "Hidden Gems of East London" promotional piece I produced for the television program Fashion File, I was criticized by one of the judges, Bronwyn Cosgrave, for incorrectly identifying Start as a hip East End haunt. Cosgrave said that Start was run-of-the-mill and boring, and yet, now the magazine she used to write for, British Vogue, is calling Start, "a secret weapon in the armoury of celebrities, fashionistas and musos alike." Hmm... may I offer you some humble pie, Mrs. Cosgrave?

"Artist" plagiarises artist

“William, why did you create this mess for Galliano?” This is the question posed to photographer William Klein by a friend after he saw the artist's trademark "painted contacts" technique with lacquered streaks of brush color, used on a Galliano ad featuring English model Agyness Deyn. In an industry where copycatting runs rampant and true originality is a rare commodity, I'm glad Galliano has been forced by the courts to pay out $271,000 USD for trespassing on Klein's intellectual property.

Denim or Bust

An award-winning denim ball gown by Ingrid Steinmetz.
For those of us who have trouble finding a good pair of jeans... how about a dress made out of a bunch of pairs of jeans?

Salut encore!

Sorry it's been a while since my last post, but I was on My Scottish Holiday (sounds like a film title, doesn't it?), and then, when I begrudgingly returned to freezing and slushy Montréal I fell sick with a flu. Anyway, I'm back and back at it. I should feature a fashion post about Glasgow but the majority of my time there was spent taking in the gothic and medieaval architecture, pastoral landscapes, and the feel of lush green grass in the sun. Ahhh... printemps est finalement arrivé!

iPods and Men's Suits

The most effective advertisements strike us with that elusive 'something' that feels alarmingly familiar, albeit, in an abstract way where we aren't sure what dots connect where but we just know that we dig it. Recent iPod adverts appeal to this immediate feeling of inspiration and entertainment that a single image can conjure.

Recently, in the online journal of former Talking Heads frontman David Byrne, the musician pointed out that the latest iPod advertisement looks very similar to something we've seen before, as in, it looks just like images from artist, Robert Longo's series, Men in the Cities.

In the images above you see that the black silhouette flailing about, moved by the music, dancing against a pastel découpage "arty" backdrop is indeed quite similar to a Robert Longo image but just 'revamped,' edited, and updated for the aesthetic tastes of contemporary hipsters who, appreciate the 80s vibe of the skinny tie and short pants and fashion-wise, wish to channel the likes of Pete Doherty. This is exactly where the advertising team behind iPod have really struck gold - the campaign hits three of the major pillars of street cred - fashion, music, and art. In adapting an original Brooklyn artist's image to a more contemporary silhouette (tighter fitting shoulders in the jacket, shorter jacket length, studded belt), we find a current menswear style message in the ad too... et voila! You have a marketing campaign guaranteed to do exactly what it was meant to - entice the youngsters with what's cool in fashion and in music. A perfect marriage in lifestyle - brought together inconspicuously, by art.

"zoftig humidity"

Okay, so I'll start with the disclaimer that I'd rather not promote American Vogue... however, their April issue contains a pinup editorial of Ms. Scarlett Jo that captures that old Marilyn Monroe sultriness unlike anyone else I've seen in a long time. On a style note: I do love the satin, Prada champagne blouse and plum micro mini pairing. Now I see why director, Woody Allen, refers to the 22 year old's beauty as "zoftig humidity."

Mon anniversaire - le 28 mars

Every year, a week before my birthday, I begin to ponder what gift I'm going to give myself. From my friends and family, I'd be ecstatic to receive nothing but hugs and phone calls reminding me of the special people I have in my life. But the one gift that I expect, and count on, is the one I get myself. After all, birthdays are the one time of the year when I can make a luxury purchase for myself without the sinful guilt that undoubtedly follows the cash register ring. This year, the big birthday splurge is an airline ticket to London, and a ten-day holiday in Glasgow. (One phrase, two parts: word booty.) But, I'm also going to opt for something tangible too ... and hence the images below from Vivienne Westwood's Red Label collection. Instead of paying rent next month, I should be wearing either one of the dresses or maybe the wide-leg trousers on holiday!

Manish Arora - India Fashion Week

Looks just presented at India Fashion Week from Indian designer, Manish Arora, who is touted as "the John Galliano of India", but whose use of colorful prints and tunics remind me more of Anna Sui.

Bodybag by Jude

With a weekend to recover from a a five-day digestion of catwalk images, card-swapping network types, and snippets of gossip at the barrage of shows that is Montréal Fashion Week, it is exciting that one of the collections that resonates most with me is none other than Bodybag, the label designed by the talented Jude Desjardins. The show started with a dramatic solo performance by cellist, Tyr, from the band, The Winks, and then settled into a collection of less-theatrical clothes.










This collection is not meant to shock, so much as it is to set Bodybag in good stead as a reliable, comfortable line offering pieces that you could conceive of wearing everyday, because of their ease and flattering fits. Stretch jersey cotton and tencil fabrics lent a breezy feel to the models swinging hips, while a more stiff, trenchcoat-heavy, hounds' tooth fabric used on strapless dresses and coats added a more sophisticated tone. Bodybag can be purchased online at PaperDoll, and Foundation Garments and at their Montréal boutique in the Mile End.